Plumbing · Faucets
Outdoor Faucet Leaking? 5 Causes and How to Fix Them
Outdoor faucet leaking? Check the hose washer, the packing nut behind the handle and the vacuum breaker. Learn when a leak in the wall means freeze damage.
Quick answer
NoticeWater inside the wall when the faucet runs? Turn the faucet off and close its indoor shutoff valve.
Where the water comes out tells you the fix. A spray at the hose is a loose connection. Water around the stem means the packing nut needs a snug turn. A drip from the spout when off means a worn seat washer. Water inside the wall while the faucet runs usually means frost burst the pipe.
- Time to fix
- 5–90 min
- Difficulty
- Moderate, 2 of 4
- Safety
- Warning
On this page · 11 sections
Outdoor faucets go by many names: sillcock, hose bibb, spigot or hydrant.[1] Most leaks start at one of four places: the hose connection, the packing behind the handle, the washer at the valve seat, or the vacuum breaker on top. A fifth leak, inside the wall, is the one to take seriously. The same valve parts appear indoors too; see fix a dripping indoor faucet for sink repairs.
Before you start
Shut-offs
Water
Most outdoor faucets have their own shutoff valve inside the house, often in the basement or a utility room near where the pipe goes out. If there is none, use the house's main shutoff near the water meter.
Philadelphia Water says most outdoor faucets have a dedicated shutoff valve inside, and that the main house-side valve near the meter shuts off everything in an emergency.[3] Find both before you need them.
You'll need
- Adjustable wrench
- Screwdriver set
- Slip-joint pliers
- Microfiber towels
- 5-gallon bucket
- PTFE thread seal tape
Find where the water comes out
Turn the faucet on with no hose, then off, and watch each spot. Woodford's troubleshooting sheet sorts leaks by where they appear and whether the faucet is on or off.[2]
| Where you see water | When | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Where the hose threads on | Faucet on, hose attached | Loose connection or worn hose washer[4] | Tighten, tape or a new washer |
| Around the stem behind the handle | Faucet on | Packing leak[2] | Snug the packing nut |
| Out of the spout | Faucet off | Worn seat rubber or loose screw[2] | Rebuild the stem |
| From the cap on top | Faucet on | Fouled or damaged vacuum breaker[2] | Clean or fit a new breaker |
| Inside the house wall | Faucet on | Burst tube after a freeze[2] | New faucet |
Handle DIY with care
Water at the handle while the faucet runs usually comes from the cartridge or a torn O-ring under it. On a ball faucet, Delta first snugs the adjusting ring under the cap.[6][7] Water around the handle: Handle
Cartridge (valve) DIY with care
The valve under the handle that controls the flow. A single-handle faucet has one, a two-handle faucet has two. A spout that drips all day points to a worn cartridge.[8][9] Replace the cartridge: Cartridge (valve)
Aerator DIY
The small screen at the spout tip. Debris caught here makes the spout drip for a minute or two after you shut it off; Kohler soaks it in warm water and white vinegar.[9] Clean the aerator: Aerator
Shutoff valves and supply lines DIY
Each supply line, hot and cold, has its own valve under the sink. Delta closes both, then opens the faucet to drain the lines before it takes anything apart.[7] Shut off the water: Shutoff valves and supply lines
Packing nut DIY
Water around the stem while the faucet runs is a packing leak. Woodford snugs the hex packing nut behind the handle; a leak that persists needs new packing.[2] Water around the stem: Packing nut
Vacuum breaker DIY
The cap on top. If water comes out of it while the faucet runs, Woodford says the vacuum breaker is fouled or damaged and should be cleaned or replaced.[2] Water from the cap: Vacuum breaker
Hose connection DIY
A leak where the hose screws on is usually the hose, not the faucet. The EPA tightens the connection with pipe tape and a wrench.[4] Leak at the hose: Hose connection
Seat washer DIY with care
A frost-free faucet closes at the inside end of a long stem. A spout that drips with the handle off has a worn seat rubber or a loose retainer screw; older sink taps drip from worn washers the same way.[2][4] Spout drips when off: Seat washer
Tube inside the wall Replace the unit
A hose left on in freezing weather keeps the faucet from draining, and the tube can burst inside the wall. It leaks only when the faucet is on, so it can go unseen for months. Woodford replaces the faucet.[2] Leak inside the wall: Tube inside the wall
Indoor shutoff valve DIY
Most outdoor faucets have their own shutoff valve inside the house. Before winter, disconnect the hose, close this valve and leave the outside faucet open to drain.[3] Find the shutoff: Indoor shutoff valve
- Other sink faucets. A ball faucet seals with small seats and springs instead of a cartridge, and an older two-handle compression tap closes on a rubber washer.[7][4]
Leaky hose connection
Water sprays where the hose screws onto the spout.Fix it: Leaky hose connectionPacking leak at the stem
Water seeps from behind the handle while the faucet runs.Fix it: Packing leak at the stemWorn seat washer
The spout drips or runs with the handle turned off.Fix it: Worn seat washerFouled vacuum breaker
Water spits from the cap on top of the faucet while it runs.Fix it: Fouled vacuum breakerPipe burst by a freeze
Water shows up inside the wall, often the first time you use the faucet in spring.What a pro does: Pipe burst by a freeze
Leak where the hose connects
This is a hose problem more often than a faucet problem. EPA says to check the garden hose for leaks at its connection to the spigot, and to get a tight connection using pipe tape and a wrench.[4]
Look inside the hose coupling
- Time: 2 min
Unscrew the hose. A flat rubber washer sits inside the female end. A missing, cracked or hard washer lets water spray out.
You'll know it worked when: You know whether the rubber washer is there and still soft.
Seat a new hose washer
- Time: 2 min
Pry out the old washer with a small screwdriver and press a new one in with your thumb. EPA's fix for a hose that leaks at the spigot starts with a new nylon or rubber hose washer.[4]
You'll know it worked when: A fresh washer sits flat in the coupling.
Tape the threads and snug the hose
- Time: 5 min
- Adjustable wrench
- PTFE thread seal tape
Wrap the faucet's outlet threads clockwise with tape. Screw the hose on by hand, then snug it with the wrench, as EPA suggests.[4]
You'll know it worked when: No water sprays at the connection with the faucet fully open.
A hose left on through the winter does more harm than a spray at the coupling, as the freeze section explains.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Packing leak at the stem
Water around the stem
The packing is a seal around the operating stem, held by a hex nut right behind the handle. Woodford says this packing nut will occasionally need to be tightened to stop a leak around the stem when the faucet is on.[2]
Snug the packing nut
- Time: 5 min
- Adjustable wrench
Leave all the parts in place. Turn the packing nut clockwise until it is snug and the leak stops, as Woodford describes.[2] Don't keep cranking it; the handle should still turn.
You'll know it worked when: No water seeps from behind the handle while the faucet runs.
Fit new packing if the leak comes back
- Time: 30 min
- Adjustable wrench
- Screwdriver set
Woodford says a persistent leak needs new packing. Shut off the supply, back out the packing nut and pry the old packing loose with a small screwdriver.[2] Take it with you to match the size.
You'll know it worked when: The new packing seals the stem.
Packing wears with use, so a faucet you run every day in summer may need a snug turn each season.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Worn seat washer
Spout drips when the faucet is off
A frost-free faucet closes deep inside the wall, at the end of a long stem. Woodford says a faucet that runs or drips with the handle off has a worn or damaged valve seat rubber, or a loose retainer screw holding it.[2] On a short, older hose bibb, the washer sits right behind the handle; the same idea applies.
Shut off the water to the faucet
- Time: 5 min
Close the indoor shutoff valve and open the outdoor faucet to drain it.[3]
You'll know it worked when: No water comes out when you open the outdoor faucet.
Back out the packing nut
- Time: 5 min
- Adjustable wrench
Loosen the handle and back out the packing nut, as Woodford's rod removal steps say.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The packing nut is free of the faucet body.
Unscrew and pull out the operating rod
- Time: 10 min
- Screwdriver set
Use the handle to turn the rod counterclockwise until it comes free of the seat. Pry the packing loose with a small screwdriver and pull the rod out. Woodford says a check valve on some rods adds resistance, so use a swift pull.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The full rod is out and you can see the rubber at its far end.
Fit a new seat rubber and snug its screw
- Time: 15 min
Fit the seat rubber from the repair kit for your model and snug the retainer screw. Push the rod back in, turn it clockwise to seat, and refit the packing nut.
You'll know it worked when: The new rubber is held firmly by its screw.
Turn the water back on and test
- Time: 5 min
Open the indoor valve slowly. Woodford says that if a new seat rubber doesn't fix the leak, the seat itself may be damaged and the faucet must be replaced.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The spout stays dry with the handle off.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Fouled vacuum breaker
Water from the cap on top
Many frost-free faucets have a vacuum breaker under a small plastic cap on top. Woodford says water leaking from it while the faucet runs means it is fouled or damaged.[2]
Shut off the water and pry off the cap
- Time: 5 min
- Screwdriver set
Close the indoor valve. Pry the plastic cap off the top of the faucet.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The vacuum breaker body is in view.
Lift out the vacuum breaker body
- Time: 5 min
- Slip-joint pliers
Woodford removes the body with pliers and checks it for fouling.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The breaker body is out and you can check it for grit.
Clean it, or fit a new float kit
- Time: 10 min
Woodford checks the body for fouling, or replaces it with the vacuum breaker float kit for the model.[2] Rinse off any grit, refit the parts, turn the water back on and test.
You'll know it worked when: No water spits from the top while the faucet runs.
Grit from the supply line is a common reason a breaker fouls, so rinse the parts before you decide to buy a kit.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Pipe burst by a freeze
Leak inside the wall: freeze damage
This is the leak to treat as urgent. Woodford explains the chain of events: a hose left attached keeps water from draining out of a frost-free faucet. The water freezes, the pressure has no way out, and the copper tube bursts inside the wall.[2] Only a few drops leak at the time. The burst sits past the shutoff, so nothing shows until you turn the faucet on, sometimes months later.[2] Woodford's fix is a new faucet.[2]
Turn the outdoor faucet off
- Time: 1 min
Close the faucet handle at once. Water only escapes from this kind of burst while the faucet is open.[2]
You'll know it worked when: No more water flows into the wall.
Close the indoor shutoff valve
- Time: 5 min
Use the dedicated valve for that faucet, or the house-side main valve near the meter if there is none.[3]
You'll know it worked when: The pipe to the outdoor faucet holds no pressure.
Dry out the wet area
- Time: 30 min
- Microfiber towels
- 5-gallon bucket
Mop up, open the ceiling tile or cabinet nearby if you can, and set a fan on the area.
You'll know it worked when: Standing water is gone and wet items are moved away.
Call a plumber about a new faucet
- Time: 5 min
Tell them the faucet leaks inside the wall when it runs. Bring up whether a hose was left on last winter.
You'll know it worked when: A plumber is booked to fit a new faucet.
To keep it from happening again, Philadelphia Water's winter advice is to disconnect garden hoses, close the dedicated indoor valve, and leave the outdoor faucet open so the pipe can drain.[3] Woodford also sells anti-burst models, such as its Model 19, which it says won't freeze and burst even with a hose attached; its standard Model 17 needs the hose removed.[5]
Still not fixed? See when to call a pro
Parts and tools for this fix
A wrench, a screwdriver and the repair kit for your faucet model cover most of these repairs. Match parts to the model before you buy; Woodford sells kits by model.[2]
When to call a pro
Call a plumber for any leak inside the house, and for a faucet that still drips after a new seat rubber. Replacing a frost-free faucet means opening and resealing a pipe joint inside the wall.
Philadelphia Water reminds owners that the pipes on their property are their own responsibility, which is why the call goes to a licensed plumber, not the utility.[3] For the rest of the house, see home plumbing basics, and the faucet repair basics page for other fixtures.
Frequently asked questions
FAQ
Why does my outdoor faucet leak only when a hose is on?
Can a frost-free faucet still freeze?
How do I winterize an outdoor faucet?
Is a dripping spigot worth fixing?
Sources
“How to Prevent Frozen Pipes and Avoid Costly Repairs” · PDF · accessed
“Fix a Leak Week” · accessed
“Woodford Residential Wall Faucets (brochure)” · PDF · p. 1 (Models 17 and 19) · accessed
“DIY: Easiest Way to Fix a Leaky Faucet” · accessed
“Bathroom Faucet: Dripping From The Spout” · accessed
How this guide was made
This guide was drafted with AI assistance from the manufacturer and safety sources listed above, then checked against those sources in an AI-assisted review. No licensed technician reviewed it. Last reviewed . Our methodology