Plumbing · Faucets
How to Fix a Leaking Faucet (Drips at the Spout or Handle)
A faucet that drips after you shut it off usually needs a new cartridge, seats and springs, or washer. Find your valve type and fix it step by step.
Quick answer
A drip that lasts only a minute or two after shutoff is often a dirty aerator. A drip that never stops means a worn part inside the valve: the cartridge on most single-handle and many two-handle faucets, seats and springs on ball faucets, or a washer on older compression taps. Close the supply valves first.
- Time to fix
- 15–90 min
- Difficulty
- Moderate, 2 of 4
- Safety
- Warning
On this page · 11 sections
A dripping faucet wastes more water than it looks like. EPA says one drip per second adds up to more than 3,000 gallons a year, and worn washers and gaskets are a frequent cause.[1] The fix is usually one small part inside the valve. Which part depends on how your faucet is built, so identify the type first. For names of the parts used below, see faucet types and parts.
Before you start
Shut-offs
Water
The two small valves on the hot and cold lines under the sink. Turn each one clockwise until it stops. If there are none, or they won't close, use the main water shutoff for the house.
Take a photo of each part as it comes off, and lay the parts out in order on a towel. Find your faucet's model number first, or bring the old cartridge or stem to the store. Kohler says the replacement valve part number varies with the faucet model, and Moen matches cartridges to the model number through its parts sheets.[4][5]
You'll need
- Microfiber towels
- Screwdriver set
- Slip-joint pliers
- Hex key set (inch sizes)
- Needle-nose pliers
- 5-gallon bucket
- Adjustable wrench
Find out why it drips
Two things tell you where to look: when the drip happens, and what kind of handle the faucet has. Kohler separates a short drip that stops on its own from a drip that runs all day.[4] The table sums up what the Moen, Kohler, Delta and EPA pages say.[5][3]
| What you see | Likely cause | First fix |
|---|---|---|
| Drips for a minute or two after shutoff, then stops | Debris in the aerator at the spout tip[4] | Clean the aerator |
| Drips all day from the spout, single handle | Worn cartridge[5] | New cartridge |
| Drips all day, single handle that moves a round ball | Worn seats and springs[3] | New seats and springs |
| Drips from the spout, older two-handle tap | Worn washer or gasket[1] | New washer, or new cartridge on cartridge models |
| Water at the base of the handle while it runs | Worn cartridge or seal[6] | New cartridge or seal |
Handle DIY with care
Water at the handle while the faucet runs usually comes from the cartridge or a torn O-ring under it. On a ball faucet, Delta first snugs the adjusting ring under the cap.[7][3] Water around the handle: Handle
Cartridge (valve) DIY with care
The valve under the handle that controls the flow. A single-handle faucet has one, a two-handle faucet has two. A spout that drips all day points to a worn cartridge.[5][4] Replace the cartridge: Cartridge (valve)
Aerator DIY
The small screen at the spout tip. Debris caught here makes the spout drip for a minute or two after you shut it off; Kohler soaks it in warm water and white vinegar.[4] Clean the aerator: Aerator
Shutoff valves and supply lines DIY
Each supply line, hot and cold, has its own valve under the sink. Delta closes both, then opens the faucet to drain the lines before it takes anything apart.[3] Shut off the water: Shutoff valves and supply lines
Packing nut DIY
Water around the stem while the faucet runs is a packing leak. Woodford snugs the hex packing nut behind the handle; a leak that persists needs new packing.[9] Water around the stem: Packing nut
Vacuum breaker DIY
The cap on top. If water comes out of it while the faucet runs, Woodford says the vacuum breaker is fouled or damaged and should be cleaned or replaced.[9] Water from the cap: Vacuum breaker
Hose connection DIY
A leak where the hose screws on is usually the hose, not the faucet. The EPA tightens the connection with pipe tape and a wrench.[1] Leak at the hose: Hose connection
Seat washer DIY with care
A frost-free faucet closes at the inside end of a long stem. A spout that drips with the handle off has a worn seat rubber or a loose retainer screw; older sink taps drip from worn washers the same way.[9][1] Spout drips when off: Seat washer
Tube inside the wall Replace the unit
A hose left on in freezing weather keeps the faucet from draining, and the tube can burst inside the wall. It leaks only when the faucet is on, so it can go unseen for months. Woodford replaces the faucet.[9] Leak inside the wall: Tube inside the wall
Indoor shutoff valve DIY
Most outdoor faucets have their own shutoff valve inside the house. Before winter, disconnect the hose, close this valve and leave the outside faucet open to drain.[10] Find the shutoff: Indoor shutoff valve
- Other sink faucets. A ball faucet seals with small seats and springs instead of a cartridge, and an older two-handle compression tap closes on a rubber washer.[3][1]
Dirty aerator
The drip stops by itself a minute or two after you turn the faucet off.Fix it: Dirty aeratorWorn cartridge
The spout keeps dripping all day on a single-handle or two-handle cartridge faucet.Fix it: Worn cartridgeWorn seats and springs (ball faucet)
A single-handle faucet with a ball valve drips from the spout.Fix it: Worn seats and springs (ball faucet)Worn washer on a compression tap
An older two-handle tap that you screw down tight drips from the spout.Fix it: Worn washer on a compression tapLeak around the handle
Water seeps out at the handle while the faucet runs.Fix it: Leak around the handle
Drip that stops on its own: clean the aerator
The aerator is the small screen at the end of the spout. Kohler says dirt or debris there can make a kitchen faucet drip for a minute or two after you turn it off.[4] This is the one fix that needs no shutoff.
Unscrew the aerator
- Time: 5 min
- Microfiber towels
Wrap a cloth around the aerator so it doesn't scratch, and turn it counterclockwise by hand. Keep the small parts in order.
You'll know it worked when: The aerator is off and the spout is open.
Soak it in vinegar and water
- Time: 30 min
Kohler soaks the aerator in a 50/50 mix of warm water and white vinegar to dissolve hard water buildup, then rinses it.[4]
You'll know it worked when: The screen is clear of white or gray scale.
Refit and watch the spout
- Time: 5 min
Screw the aerator back on by hand. Run the faucet, turn it off and wait. If drops keep coming after a few minutes, the valve itself is leaking.
You'll know it worked when: The spout is dry within a minute of shutoff.
Hard water leaves new scale over time, so clean the aerator whenever the stream starts to spray to one side.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Worn cartridge
Constant drip from a cartridge faucet
Moen says a drip from the spout usually means the cartridge, the part that controls the water flow. A single-handle faucet has one cartridge, and a two-handle faucet has two.[5] Kohler gives the same fix for a kitchen faucet that drips all day: replace the valve or cartridge under the handle.[4] Moen adds that its leaks are often caused by a scratched or torn cartridge, O-ring or grommet, and that a new cartridge typically fixes them.[7]
Find the model and buy the matching cartridge
- Time: 15 min
Use the model number from your paperwork or the brand's parts lookup. Moen says the handle and its parts must come off to reach the cartridge.[5]
You'll know it worked when: You have the exact cartridge for your faucet.
Shut off the water and remove the handle
- Time: 10 min
- Screwdriver set
Close both supply valves and open the faucet.[2] Pry off any decorative cap, then take out the handle screw and lift the handle off. Moen says the handle and its parts must come off before you can reach the cartridge.[5]
You'll know it worked when: The top of the cartridge and its clip or nut are in view.
Release the cartridge and pull it out
- Time: 15 min
- Screwdriver set
- Slip-joint pliers
On a Moen 1225, slide the copper retainer clip out with a flathead screwdriver. Twist the cartridge a quarter turn with the kit's tool, then pull the stem out with pliers. Moen warns this may take some effort.[2] Other faucets hold the cartridge with a nut or a clip of their own; follow the parts sheet for your model.
You'll know it worked when: The old cartridge is out and you know which way it faced.
Flush the valve body
- Time: 5 min
Moen recommends cleaning and flushing the valve body before the new cartridge goes in.[2] Hold a cup over the opening and open each supply valve for a second.
You'll know it worked when: No grit is left in the valve body.
Fit the new cartridge the same way
- Time: 10 min
Push the cartridge fully in with the same orientation as the old one. Refit the clip or nut without forcing it; Moen says resistance at the clip means the cartridge is not aligned. If hot and cold come out reversed, Moen turns the cartridge stem 180 degrees.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The cartridge is seated and the clip or nut is back in place.
A new cartridge should stop the drip completely. Grit is a common reason a new cartridge fails early, so the flush step matters.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Worn seats and springs (ball faucet)
Drip from a ball faucet: seats and springs
A ball faucet has a single handle on a rounded cap, with a ball inside that sets flow and temperature. Delta says the usual cause of a drip is the seats and springs. Its repair works on kitchen, bathroom and tub/shower valves with a ball valve assembly, but not on its DIAMOND Seal faucets.[3]
Shut off the water and take off the handle
- Time: 10 min
- Hex key set (inch sizes)
- Screwdriver set
Close both supply valves and run the faucet until the lines drain. Remove the screw cover, take out the screw with a screwdriver or Allen wrench, then lift off the handle.[3]
You'll know it worked when: The cap and adjusting ring are in view.
Remove the cap, ball, cam and packing
- Time: 10 min
- Needle-nose pliers
- Microfiber towels
Unscrew and remove the adjusting ring; newer faucets may not have one. Unscrew the cap with a cloth for grip, gently so it doesn't bend. Pull out the stem with the ball and the cam and packing.[3]
You'll know it worked when: You can see the two seats in the faucet body.
Pull out the old seats and springs
- Time: 5 min
- Hex key set (inch sizes)
Delta lifts each rubber seat and its spring out with the tip of an Allen wrench.[3]
You'll know it worked when: Both seat holes are empty.
Flush the lines
- Time: 5 min
- 5-gallon bucket
Delta removes the aerator, sets an upside-down bucket over the faucet and runs both lines for a minute. Then shut the water off again.[3]
You'll know it worked when: Clean water runs from both lines.
Fit the new seats and springs, then reassemble
- Time: 15 min
Thread each new seat and spring onto the Allen wrench and tip it into its hole. Refit the ball with its pin in the slot, then the cam with its tab in the slot. Hand-tighten the cap, snug the ring and refit the handle.[3]
You'll know it worked when: The faucet stays dry at the spout after shutoff.
If water seeps from the cap and adjusting ring, Delta first tightens the ring with needle-nose pliers. A leak at the stem, where the cam and packing sit, calls for a new cam and packing.[3]
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Worn washer on a compression tap
Drip from an older two-handle tap
On an older two-handle tap you turn each handle down until it feels tight. Inside, a rubber washer presses against a seat. EPA names old and worn washers and gaskets as a frequent cause of faucet leaks.[1] Many newer two-handle faucets use a cartridge on each side instead, which the cartridge section above covers.[5]
Find the side that drips
- Time: 10 min
Close only the hot supply valve under the sink and wait. If the drip stops, the hot side is worn; if it keeps going, the cold side is.
You'll know it worked when: You know whether the hot or the cold side leaks.
Take out the stem on that side
- Time: 15 min
- Screwdriver set
- Adjustable wrench
Close both valves and open the faucet. Remove the handle, then unscrew the stem's nut with the wrench, holding the faucet body steady with your other hand.
You'll know it worked when: The stem is out and you can see the washer at its tip.
Match the washer or stem at the store
- Time: 30 min
Washers and stems come in many sizes. Bring the old stem with you, and inspect the seat inside the faucet for pits or cracks.
You'll know it worked when: You have a washer, or a stem, of the same size and shape.
Reassemble and test
- Time: 10 min
Fit the new washer or stem, thread the stem in by hand first, and snug the nut. Open the supply valves slowly and check for drips.
You'll know it worked when: Neither side drips after shutoff.
If the seat inside the faucet body is cracked or badly pitted, a new washer won't seal for long. That is the point to call a plumber or replace the faucet.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Leak around the handle
Water around the handle
Moen says water that leaks around the handle while the faucet runs also usually comes from the cartridge.[6] On a Delta ball faucet with a leak at the cap, Delta first tightens the adjusting ring; if that doesn't stop it, Delta replaces the seats and springs.[3] A leak at the handle makes its own guide, the faucet handle leaking guide.
Check where the water appears
- Time: 5 min
- Microfiber towels
Dry the faucet. Run it for a minute and watch the handle and the base.
You'll know it worked when: You know if the water comes from the handle, the cap or the base.
Snug the adjusting ring on a ball faucet
- Time: 5 min
- Needle-nose pliers
With the water off, take off the handle and turn the ring a little clockwise, as Delta describes.[3]
You'll know it worked when: No water seeps from under the cap.
Replace the cartridge on a cartridge faucet
- Time: 45 min
Follow the cartridge steps above. Moen notes that a torn O-ring can also cause the leak.[7]
You'll know it worked when: The handle stays dry while the faucet runs.
Water under the faucet base or inside the cabinet is a different leak. Check the supply line connections before you blame the faucet.
Still not fixed? See when to call a pro
Parts and tools for this fix
Most of these repairs need a screwdriver, pliers and the one part that matches your faucet. Cartridges, seats and stems are model-specific, so buy them after you know the brand and model.[4]
When to call a pro
Stop and call a plumber if a part won't come out without force, or if water keeps flowing with the supply valves closed. A shutoff valve that won't close also needs replacing before any faucet work.
An old faucet with many worn parts can cost more to rebuild than to replace. NAHB's 2007 study says kitchen faucets work properly for about 15 years.[8] For other repairs in the same family, see leaking outdoor faucet and toilet tank repairs.
Frequently asked questions
FAQ
Is a dripping faucet worth fixing right away?
Why does my faucet drip for a minute and then stop?
Can I use any cartridge that fits?
Do I need to turn off the water to fix a faucet?
Sources
“Fix a Leak Week” · accessed
“DIY: Easiest Way to Fix a Leaky Faucet” · accessed
“Bathroom Faucet: Dripping From The Spout” · accessed
“Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components” · PDF · p. 6 (Faucets and Fixtures) · accessed
“How to Prevent Frozen Pipes and Avoid Costly Repairs” · PDF · accessed
How this guide was made
This guide was drafted with AI assistance from the manufacturer and safety sources listed above, then checked against those sources in an AI-assisted review. No licensed technician reviewed it. Last reviewed . Our methodology