Appliances · Dishwasher
Dishwasher Not Draining? 6 Causes and How to Fix Them
Dishwasher not draining? Start with the filter, the garbage disposal plug and the drain hose. Step-by-step checks, safety warnings and when to call a pro.
Quick answer
A little water under the filter is normal; water above it is not. Make sure the cycle really finished, then clean the filter and sump. Next check the garbage disposal, the drain hose loop and the air gap. A pump that hums or stays silent after those checks needs a technician.
- Time to fix
- 10–60 min
- Difficulty
- Easy, 1 of 4
- Safety
- Warning
On this page · 13 sections
Standing water in a dishwasher is rarely a dead machine. In most cases something in the drain path is blocked: the filter in the tub, the hose under the sink, the garbage disposal it empties into, or the air gap on the counter. Whirlpool's own guide walks the same path, from the filter to the hose to the sink connection.[1] The checks below need towels, a cup, a flashlight and about half an hour. To see how all the parts connect, start with the dishwasher drain path.
Before you start
Shut-offs
Power
The breaker for the dishwasher, or its plug under the sink if it has a cord.
Water
The shutoff valve under the sink, usually on the hot water line that feeds the dishwasher.
Close the water valve too, so the tub can't refill while you work. Whirlpool lists it with the breaker as the first step.[1] Keep towels in front of the door. Water in the sump may hold broken glass, so feel around it slowly or wear gloves.[1]
Don't pour drain cleaner into the tub. Whirlpool warns that drain-opening chemicals can damage the dishwasher's parts.[1]
You'll need
- Microfiber towels
- 5-gallon bucket
- LED work flashlight
- Nitrile-coated work gloves
Is some water normal?
A small amount, yes. Frigidaire says it is normal to find some water in the bottom after a cycle. The time to worry is when the water covers the filter screen.[2] Whirlpool reads the water level the same way: water just above the filter points to a partial blockage, and water up near the door opening points to a severe clog or a pump that never ran.[1]
Find the cause
Work from the inside out. The filter is the quickest check, and the pump is the last.
Filter DIY
Water leaves the tub through a removable filter at the bottom. It keeps food, labels and glass away from the pump. On Frigidaire models a cylinder filter catches broken glass, bones and pits above a flat coarse filter.[1][5][7] Clean the filter: Filter
Sump DIY
The recessed well around the filter, right above the pump. Whirlpool reads the water level here: water just above the filter means a partial blockage. Pick out debris with gloves on and the breaker off.[1] Clear the sump: Sump
Drain pump Pro only
The pump pushes the water out at the end of each wash and rinse. A steady hum with no water moving points to a jammed impeller, grinding to hard debris, and silence to an electrical or control fault.[1] What the sounds mean: Drain pump
Drain hose DIY
The hose runs from the pump into the sink cabinet. It must not be kinked, crushed or trapped under the dishwasher. Frigidaire asks for at least 32 inches of height above the floor before it drops to the drain.[1][4][8] Check the hose: Drain hose
Air gap DIY
A small fitting on the counter, under a cap you can pull off. It stops sink water from flowing back into the tub. Water spilling out of it during a drain means the clog is further down, in the hose or the sink plumbing.[1][7] Clean the air gap: Air gap
Garbage disposal inlet DIY
Many dishwashers drain into a side inlet on the disposal. A new disposal comes with a knockout plug in that inlet, and if it stays in, nothing drains. A disposal full of food blocks the water too.[1][3][4] Check the disposal: Garbage disposal inlet
Sink tailpiece and trap Plumber if the sink is slow too
Last comes the house drain. Run the faucet for 30 seconds: if the sink does not drain either, the clog is in the home’s plumbing, and Samsung says to call a plumber.[4][1] Run the sink test: Sink tailpiece and trap
- No air gap? Then a high loop. Without an air gap, the hose has to rise in a high loop fastened to the underside of the counter before it drops to the drain. Without one or the other, dirty water can flow back into the tub. Local codes decide which one you need.[1][4]
Cycle canceled or paused before the drain
The machine stopped before it reached the pump-out.Fix it: Cycle canceled or paused before the drainClogged filter and sump
Food, labels, seeds or glass block the opening to the pump.Fix it: Clogged filter and sumpGarbage disposal plug or a full disposal
A new disposal still has its knockout plug, or food fills the inlet.Fix it: Garbage disposal plug or a full disposalKinked or crushed drain hose
The hose is pinched, sagging or packed with debris.Fix it: Kinked or crushed drain hoseBlocked air gap or sink drain
The water leaves the dishwasher but can't get past the sink plumbing.Fix it: Blocked air gap or sink drainDrain pump jammed or not running
The pump hums, grinds, or makes no sound at all.What a pro does: Drain pump jammed or not running
Use what you hear and see to skip ahead. This table puts Whirlpool's diagnostic clues in one place.[1]
| What you notice | Most likely cause | Go to |
|---|---|---|
| Water sits a little above the filter | Partial clog in the filter, sump or hose | Filter, then drain hose |
| Water reaches the door opening | Severe clog, or the pump never ran | Disposal, drain hose, pump |
| A steady hum, but no water moves | Jammed pump impeller | Filter and sump, then pump |
| Grinding during the drain | Hard debris such as glass near the pump | Filter and sump |
| Water comes up out of the air gap | Clog past the air gap, in the hose or sink | Air gap and sink drain |
| No pump sound at all | Electrical or control fault | Call a technician |
Cycle canceled or paused
A dishwasher drains at the end of each wash and rinse, when the control turns on the drain pump.[1] If someone opened the door, or the power blinked, the cycle may have stopped with water still inside.
Check the display or lights
- Time: 1 min
A paused cycle often shows a blinking light or a time still remaining. Write down any error code first. Samsung, for example, uses 5C, 5E, OC or OE for a drain or overflow problem.[4]
You'll know it worked when: You know whether the cycle ended or stopped partway.
Close the door and let the cycle finish
- Time: 5 min
Latch the door and resume or restart the cycle. Listen near the bottom of the door for the drain pump.[1]
You'll know it worked when: You hear the pump run and the water level drops.
Run a short rinse and check again
- Time: 15 min
If the water is still there after a full drain, move on to the filter.[1]
You'll know it worked when: The tub is empty except for a little water under the filter.
A cycle that stops in the same place every time is not an interruption. Note where it stops for the technician.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Clogged filter and sump
Clean the filter and sump
The filter keeps food from reaching the pump. Bosch says it stops particles from clogging the pump and landing back on your dishes.[5] When the filter clogs, water can't get to the pump fast enough.
Bail out the standing water
- Time: 10 min
- Microfiber towels
- 5-gallon bucket
With the breaker off, scoop the water into a bucket with a cup. A turkey baster reaches the last of it in the sump. Pour it down a sink or toilet.[1]
You'll know it worked when: The tub is empty enough to reach the filter.
Remove and wash the filter
- Time: 10 min
Pull out the lower rack. Twist the filter and lift it out, along with a lower filter if your model has one. Wash it under running water with mild soap and a soft brush; skip scouring pads.[5][1]
You'll know it worked when: The mesh is clean and light passes through it.
Clear the sump below the filter
- Time: 5 min
- LED work flashlight
- Nitrile-coated work gloves
Shine a light into the sump. Pick out food, labels, seeds, toothpicks and broken glass by hand, with gloves on.[1]
You'll know it worked when: The sump opening is clear of food, labels and glass.
Put every part back in place
- Time: 5 min
Seat the lower filter flat, then turn the upper filter until it locks.[1] Samsung warns that a missing or misplaced part can itself cause drain errors.[4]
You'll know it worked when: The filter is locked in and nothing is left over.
Test with a short cycle
- Time: 15 min
Turn the breaker back on and run a rinse. Listen for the pump and check the tub when it ends.[1]
You'll know it worked when: The pump runs and the water drains away.
Bosch says to clean the filter regularly, and Whirlpool says more often if you cook and run the dishwasher a lot.[5][1] Scraping plates before you load them keeps most of the debris out. For a deeper cleaning routine, see how to clean a clogged dishwasher filter.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Garbage disposal plug or a full disposal
Garbage disposal plug or a full disposal
Many dishwashers drain into the garbage disposal under the sink. A new disposal comes with a knockout plug in its dishwasher inlet. If the installer left it in, Whirlpool says it blocks drainage completely.[1] Bosch and Samsung both list the same plug as a cause.[3][4]
Run the disposal first
- Time: 2 min
Food packed in the disposal can block the dishwasher's water. Frigidaire's first fix is simply to run the disposal and clear the drain.[2]
You'll know it worked when: The disposal is empty and the sink drains freely.
Check for the knockout plug on a new disposal
- Time: 10 min
- LED work flashlight
With the dishwasher breaker off, loosen the hose clamp and pull the hose off the disposal inlet over a pan. If the inlet is sealed, the plug is still in place.[1]
You'll know it worked when: You can see an open inlet where the dishwasher hose connects.
Have the plug knocked out properly
- Time: 15 min
The plug has to be removed from the disposal, not just pushed inside where it can rattle. If you are not sure how, ask the person who installed the disposal or a plumber.
You'll know it worked when: The inlet is open and the loose plug is out of the disposal.
If the disposal itself hums, jams or won't start, fix that first: check the garbage disposal.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Kinked or crushed drain hose
Kinked or clogged drain hose
The drain hose runs from the pump to the sink drain, an air gap or the disposal. Whirlpool says it needs a high loop under the counter, or a working air gap, so dirty water can't flow back into the tub.[1] A hose that got crushed when the dishwasher was pushed in, or kinked during under-sink work, slows or stops the flow.
Look along the hose for kinks and sags
- Time: 5 min
- LED work flashlight
Check under the sink and, if you can see it, behind the kick plate. Samsung also says to make sure the dishwasher is not sitting on its own hose.[4]
You'll know it worked when: The hose runs smoothly with no flat spots.
Confirm the high loop or air gap
- Time: 5 min
The loop must be secured up under the counter. Samsung notes that local codes may require an air gap or a high loop.[4][1]
You'll know it worked when: The hose rises high under the counter before it drops to the drain.
Disconnect and flush the hose
- Time: 15 min
- Microfiber towels
- 5-gallon bucket
Set a towel and a pan under the connection, loosen the clamp and pull the hose off. Flush it with warm water. Use a flexible plastic line for a stubborn clog, never a sharp tool that could puncture it.[1]
You'll know it worked when: Water runs freely through the hose.
Reconnect and test
- Time: 15 min
Tighten the clamp snugly but not hard. Recheck the loop and run a short cycle.[1]
You'll know it worked when: The clamp is snug, the loop is back in place, and a short cycle drains.
A hose too damaged to straighten needs replacing; Samsung sends that case to service.[4] Whirlpool suggests checking the high loop again after any under-sink work.[1]
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Blocked air gap or sink drain
Blocked air gap or sink drain
Sometimes the dishwasher pumps fine and the house drain is the problem. Samsung's test is simple: run water in the sink for about 30 seconds. If the sink doesn't drain either, the clog is in the home's plumbing and a plumber is the next call.[4]
Run the sink test
- Time: 2 min
Run the faucet for about 30 seconds and watch the basin.[4]
You'll know it worked when: You know whether the sink drains on its own.
Clean the air gap cap
- Time: 5 min
If your sink has an air gap, the small cap next to the faucet, pull the cap off and clear out the debris. Whirlpool suggests doing this now and then.[1]
You'll know it worked when: The air gap is free of food and grease.
Watch the air gap during a drain
- Time: 10 min
Water spilling from the air gap means the clog sits downstream, in the hose or the sink plumbing.[1]
You'll know it worked when: No water spills from the air gap into the sink.
Check for a frozen drain line in cold weather
- Time: 15 min
If the line runs along a cold outside wall, open the cabinet doors to let warm air in. Samsung says to call a plumber if it stays frozen.[4]
You'll know it worked when: The cabinet is warm and the line drains again.
If the kitchen sink is slow too, treat it as a sink problem first: clogged sink drain.
Still not fixed? Next likely cause: Drain pump jammed or not running
Drain pump jammed or not running
If the filter, disposal, hose and sink are all clear, the pump is next. Whirlpool's clues: a steady hum with no water moving points to a jammed impeller, and grinding points to hard debris such as glass. No sound at all during the drain points to the door switch, wiring, pump power or the control board.[1]
Listen during a drain
- Time: 5 min
Run a short rinse and listen at the bottom of the door when the wash ends and the drain should start.[1]
You'll know it worked when: You know whether the pump hums, grinds or stays silent.
Recheck the sump for hard debris
- Time: 10 min
- LED work flashlight
- Nitrile-coated work gloves
With the breaker off and the filter out, look again for glass or bone in the sump. Hard debris there is a common reason for a hum or a grind.[1]
You'll know it worked when: Nothing hard sits in the sump opening.
Book a technician for a silent or humming pump
- Time: 5 min
Pump, wiring and control work are electrical repairs. Whirlpool says to schedule service when draining doesn't improve after the filter and hose checks.[1]
You'll know it worked when: A technician has your model number, the symptom and the checks you made.
A pump repair on an older dishwasher may cost more than it is worth. A 2007 NAHB study put a dishwasher's typical life at about 9 years.[6] For the repair itself, see testing and replacing a dishwasher drain pump, or weigh it with the repair-or-replace calculator.
Still not fixed? See when to call a pro
Parts and tools for this fix
Most of these checks need only towels, a cup, a bucket and a light. Gloves protect your hands from glass in the sump.[1]
When to call a pro
Stop when the problem moves from a clog to a part. Whirlpool lists electrical concerns, leaks and unclear error codes as reasons to book service.[1]
Tell the technician which checks you already made. It saves a return visit.
Frequently asked questions
FAQ
How much water in the bottom of a dishwasher is normal?
Can I use drain cleaner in a dishwasher?
Why did my dishwasher stop draining after a new disposal went in?
Is my Frigidaire draining the same way?
Sources
“Samsung dishwasher is not draining” · accessed
“Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components” · PDF · Appliances findings and Table 1 (Dishwashers) · accessed
“Dishwasher Glass Trap and Filter Guide” · accessed
“Dishwasher - Drain Hose Guide” · accessed
How this guide was made
This guide was drafted with AI assistance from the manufacturer and safety sources listed above, then checked against those sources in an AI-assisted review. No licensed technician reviewed it. Last reviewed . Our methodology